21-22 August 2023
I spent the evening before my journey to Bute, plotting the route on my SatMap. The Ordnance Survey maps show a route which involves a long road walk on the north end of the island between Port Bannatyne and Rhubodach, just south of the short ferry crossing to Colintraive. Belatedly, I had decided to follow the walk in “reverse” direction from Port Ballantyne to Kilchattan. The kind team at Bute Backpackers’ Hostel had given me permission to jettison my camping equipment there immediately after my arrival on the island; the alternative was to carry it all for my first day until booking in to the hostel in the late afternoon. This meant that I wouldn’t catch the bus to Kilchattan which links with the ferry arriving at Rothesay just after 08.00am so walking the sections north of Rothesay on my first day appeared to be logical.
The weather forecast looked ok – I’m sure that the risk of rain was meant to be under 5%. I left the Z Hotel in Glasgow before the crack of dawn and caught the 05.50am train from Glasgow Central to Wemyss Bay. Wemyss Bay Station is regarded as one of the finest railway buildings in Scotland. It’s a wrought-iron and glass palace that serves as a reminder of the days when thousands of Glaswegians would alight for their steamer trip ‘doon the watter’ (down the water) to Bute. A covered way leads directly to the waiting area for the CalMac ferry. It’s only just over half an hour sailing time before alighting at the Royal Burgh of Rothesay.
The sea front shows signs of the heritage of its Victorian heydays and the esplanade gardens have been restored. Unfortunately it was drizzling with rain and there was low cloud. I made my way north along the esplanade to Bute backpackers: http://www.butebackpackershotel.co.uk/ and unpacked most of the contents of my rucksack.
It was so much better only having to carry the weight of my day equipment on my walk. I headed north along the pavement to the start /end of the walk at Port Ballantyne. The drizzle increased. of course I wasn’t looking for any footpath off the road and I followed the quiet A road with views of cloud covered mountains to the east on the other side of the Kyles of Bute. There were lots of large ripe and succulent blackberries on brambles near the roadside.
Eventually I turned off the road next to some roadworks to climb into the forest on a good track. For the first time I saw a sign for the West Island Way. Confusingly it pointed in two directions but neither was the direction that I had come from. It wasn’t until later that there was another sign with a map and I realised that instead of following the road from Port Ballantyne I could have taken a route across open moorland. I had actually followed the low-level alternative route which is the only one marked on the OS maps. Maybe given the weather conditions it was just as well and perhaps I would have been in cloud without views on the higher moor.
The weather was improving and, from my walk down Glen More, past some ruined townships with only a few stones remaining, I could see the hills that I had missed climbing over earlier in the day. It was quite a boggy path so I was glad to have my trekking poles to test the ground ahead and I put my gaiters on.
The path became a track and then a very minor road. I was almost scared off by a barking dog guarding a remote farm on the road. I’m not sure how I would have diverted without it adding many miles to my route. Fortunately, after the dog had started walking up the road towards me, still barking, it was called off by the farmer and I was able to turn back and pass in safety.
I was continuing to enjoy frequent snacks of luscious blackberries but was still tempted off the route when I saw a sign to Ettrick Bay tearooms. The bay looked very pleasant too and there was a direct footpath from there to Rothesay. However after my coffee and cake, which took longer than I had expected because it was waitress service and then the coffee machine went wrong….. I returned to the proper West Island way walk on the route of an old tramway.
I noticed Ettrick Smiddy and a horse sculpted from old horseshoes standing outside – it’s now self catering holiday accommodation. I missed seeing a stone circle but did see an isolated standing stone. Soon after that I passed the ruins of North Bute parish church.
I was on what appeared to be a quiet part of the route when suddenly from “nowhere” a multitude of dogs of two types – a few black Labradors and a larger number of brown furry dogs about the size of Labradors. There were about fifteen of them with a single man. None of them were on a lead and I felt quite overwhelmed as they seemed to be exhibiting pack behaviour. The man informed me they were harmless but he appreciated there were quite a number of them and if I gave him a minute he would be taking them all to the nearby road. I definitely gave him more than a minute as I certainly didn’t want to see them again. It wasn’t long before I passed a sign requesting that all dogs be kept on leads… I’ve also just read that no single person should walk more than four dogs at a time.
Fortunately the rest of my walk back to Rothesay was uneventful and I walked downhill to the Backpackers’ hostel on the seafront.
The next day I decided to take the bus to Kilchattan Bay in the morning and walk back to Rothesay as the timing to start the walk worked well. With buses not being very regular the risk if I walked from Rothesay would be that I had a very long wait at Kilchattan Bay for a bus back to Rothesay. When I got on the bus near the Rothesay ferry terminal there was only one other person on board and he got off at a bus stop soon after. Hence I was the sole passenger for almost the whole journey. I hope it was busier than that for the return journey to Rothesay (probably was as I think it might have been a bus timed for students attending school in Rothesay).
I alighted at the turning circle and was immediately on the path. There appeared to be a raised beach with cliffs above. It was very rocky and there was a warning of erosion on the path. I passed below a rocky outcrop known as the “Hawk’s Nib”. There were views towards Great Cumbrae and the mainland.
Next the path continued to near a lighthouse and Glencallum Bay. The path climbed from here but I also diverted to reach the summit of Torr Mor (146m) for an even better view across the Sound of Bute to Arran. I could see the characteristic shape of Ailsa Craig too beyond Arran.
The ruins of St Blane’s Chapel are surprisingly well preserved and extensive. Surviving remnants of the 1,400 year-old monastery include a stone wall separating the secular world from the spiritual, foundations of various circular buildings, a well and a stone base which would have once supported a wooden cross.
I saw a hogback stone dating to the tenth century demonstrating that the Vikings who settled here after the monastery was abandoned became Christians themselves.
The area also contains the ruins of Kingarth Parish Church initially built in the mid 1100s but with later building including a 1300s Romanesque chancel arch. It would all have been very evocative but I was disappointed that soon after I arrived the peace was ruined by some very noisy visitors whose antics included “Dad dancing” in the chancel area and trying to pull some loose stones out of the walls. I walked away wondering why they had chosen to come to this sacred and special place.
I passed some remains of ruined farms and townships.
Shortly after this, I diverted to the trig point on the summit of Suidhe Chatain (157m) from where there were excellent views both to the west and east of Bute.
The path descended almost to the main street in Kilchattan Bay, but kept behind the houses and then crossed a private airfield and a golf course. The signs near the golf course explained that there was a high chance of being hit by golf balls and that crossing was at the risk of the walker. I was concerned when I saw a golfer who I thought was about to tee off. I kept a close eye on him from what I hoped was a safe vantage point however maverick he might be. However he waved me across and I quickened my pace to try to reduce any risks.
I reached Stravanan Beach which I crossed, heading towards some campervans. However I should have turned up towards the road halfway along the beach. One of the occupants of the campervans explained that the cattle on the field were harmless, but I kept my distance anyway.
I reached the road but left it again soon after to walk uphill to a fine vantage point on the moor complete with a stone cairn and seat.
I was on Lord James’ Ride which ended up at a crossroads of tracks. I turned left, soon reaching a “back entrance” to Mount Stuart (a large stately home with extensive grounds).
The waymarked path continued to Rothesay. I deviated at one point to avoid some cattle on the path and then walked over a causeway on Loch Fad to reach a road that took me almost all the way back to the town.
I had enjoyed my two day adventure. However in my opinion the bit not to miss is definitely the circuit of the south end of the island from Kilchattan Bay – the views to Arran are phenomenal and St Blane’s Chapel ruins atmospheric and historically significant. It’s a pity that I didn’t realise about the hilly moorland route over the north part of the island until after I had completed the route as marked on the OS maps which is actually the bad weather alternative. There’s always another time….. and I have been told that I should definitely find time to visit Mount Stuart.
Where's Kathryn? 